Close to Amsterdam, different in spirit. Frans Hals Museum, see the master at work. A city of courtyards, quiet streets and timeless elegance.
Haarlem is fifteen minutes by train and feels a century calmer. A great market square, a cathedral with the organ Mozart played, and the Frans Hals Museum with its extraordinary portraits.
The real pleasure is the hofjes, small almshouse courtyards hidden behind unmarked doors. I know which ones you can enter and when.
